I got up and took my turn in the bathroom first as usual but Jayné
hadn’t slept well and was too sick to get out of bed. I went out to
explore on my own. It was lightly raining but I was dry under the
shelter of my umbrella. I loved the freedom of going wherever I wanted
and not waiting for anyone but myself! The cobblestones had been worn
smooth over five centuries and were slick from the rain. I walked
carefully so as not to fall and looked for shops I could go inside. I
found a news shop where I took my time browsing the books. I eventually
bought a tourists picture book of Alsace with captions in three
languages and a couple of traditional recipe books which were all
written in French and would take some deciphering. They were full of
recipes such as choucroute, kougelhopf and galettes de pommes
de terre.
From there I went back to the
Monoprix and bought vitamins – I did not want Jayné to get me sick! I
also had fun searching for hairspray which I was running low on. I
guess the French women don’t use much hairspray because I really had
trouble finding it. It was so unlike America which has entire aisles of
hairspray of all different brands in giant bottles. There were plenty
of shampoos and other body products but not much in the way of hair
styling products. Plus, I was not sure of the French word for
hairspray, maybe that’s why it was so hard to find. At last I found
it. It was called laque and I bought a perfectly tiny bottle
that would fit nicely in my suitcase. Then it was off to the beer aisle
to search for a locally brewed beer. I picked out an Alsatian amber
brewed with spices for us to try later.
I
stopped back by the apartment to drop off my purchases so I could
continue to explore unencumbered. Unbolting the door as quietly as I
could, I tiptoed in to the sound of Jayné’s deep rhythmic breathing. I
slipped the beer in the fridge to chill down and noticed our Munster
cheese we had bought. The sme
ll
had quickly cleared out of the fridge yesterday when the compressor
began to run. Maybe we would eat it with our beer for lunch later.
Back out on the streets I looked in small antique and souvenir shops and
shops selling Alsatian handcrafted wares. I ended up down by the
charming canals of petite venise (little Venice). I could only
imagine how much more incredible it would be in the summertime with the
sunshine brightening the colors of the buildings, the gondolas running,
the window boxes brimming with flowers and people sitting outdoors at
the sidewalk cafes and restaurants. But it was all quiet now and
although I missed seeing Colmar in all its splendor I was not sorry to
avoid all the crowds of tourists who flock here in summertime. It was
nice to have the streets to myself and to ponder things in peace and
quiet.
It was
market day and I unknowingly stumbled upon the market building. I
wandered the stalls, wishing I was a local and could have a reason to
buy some of the tasty looking vegetables and products offered. When I
came upon the honey vendor I stopped and looked over his honey. Now
here was a product I could buy. He had honey of all shades from a light
golden to dark brown and everything in between. Antoine Muller was a
jovial man who spoke a very decent amount of English. He at first
thought I was English, as they all did, but I informed him I was
American. We chatted and he asked questions about where I was from. I
had a hard time deciding which of the delectable looking honeys I should
buy and since he wholeheartedly recommended the miel toutes fleurs
(mixed flowers) I bought that one.
There
were a few vendors who were selling prepared foods so I bought a slice
of quiche Loraine and a meat filled pastry for Jayné and I to heat up
for lunch. At noon the shops were all closing so I made my way back to
our apartment to see how Jayné
was doing. Opening the fridge I again saw the Munster cheese but it
just didn’t sound appealing so I got out the Alsatian
beer and poured it into two tall drinking glasses. It had a nice foamy
head and was very good. While we ate our lunch of warm savory pastries
and cold beer we wrote postcards to our friends and family. The shops
didn’t open again until 2 p.m. so we had no need to hurry, but as soon
as two rolled around we were back out on the streets and I was eager to
show Jayné all that I had discovered that morning.
I took
Jayné to some shops that I knew she would love and we tried to go back
to the farmer’s market but it was all closed down now and everyone was
gone. We went back to petite venise and explored the length of
the canals. The streets of Colmar
were narrow and twisty and didn’t follow any kind of pattern or grid.
We wandered around the crooked streets, wanting to explore them all, and
just when we thought we had seen them all we would turn the corner and
discover a new little street filled with shops. “I don’t recognize this
street! Have we been down it?” We’d say to each other. I had a map in
my pocket but we didn’t use it. It was more fun to loose ourselves
among the crooked streets and see if we could find our way back.
We
found a liquor store where Jayné bought a bottle of Armanac for Ty. I
wanted to get something special too and I was looking over the Eau de
Vie. I was curious if the framboise really tasted like raspberries and
was trying to communicate this question to the proprietor. I didn’t
know how to ask this in French so I just asked in English and pointed to
my mouth and then the label of the bottle where it said framboise as I
aske
d.
She misunderstood me and thought I was asking if I could taste it.
Explaining that she didn’t have that exact bottle open, but a similar
brand, she bustled off to the back room and returned with a bottle and
two glasses in which she poured us very generous samples. (Who says
miscommunication is a bad thing?) I purchased a bottle.
We went
to the post office to get stamps for our postcards and to a tea shop we
had seen yesterday on our way to the train station. We searched through
antique and second hand shops for little
white teacups but could not find any.
We went into every souvenir shop no matter how cheesy it looked and by
dinnertime we ended up back at le Palais de Legends. This time I
ordered a tarte flambée (which is basically a pizza) with ham and
Munster cheese and the chocolate mousse for dessert. When we were done
eating we headed over to Café Leffe to get a beer. There was one more
on their menu we were dying to try. But when we got there it was almost
8:30 and they were closed! I can’t express how deep my disappointment
was, for now we would never get to try it. Our time in Colmar was up
and our train was leaving really early in the morning. Dejected, we
went back to our apartment and busied ourselves with the arduous task of
packing our suitcases.